Flush, poke and tucked fitment: measure the whole tyre

Flush usually describes an outer wheel or tyre surface that appears close to the arch's outer line. Poke means that surface sits further out than the body reference. Tucked means it sits inboard, although some owners also use tucked to describe the arch overlapping the top of the tyre on a very low car. None of these terms is a dimension or safety approval.

Say whether you mean the rim edge, tyre shoulder or tread. A rim can look flush while a fuller tyre sidewall protrudes beyond it. A tyre with a rounded shoulder can look different from a square-shouldered model in the same nominal size. A photograph taken from above can hide either relationship.

Use these terms to discuss the style you want, then switch to millimetres when choosing parts. Two people can agree that a car looks flush while imagining different wheel and tyre clearances. A brief measurement note avoids ordering wheels around that misunderstanding.

Park on level ground with the car at its normal operating load and intended ride height. Use a vertical reference at the arch and measure to the relevant outer tyre point. Repeat on both sides and both axles. The painted lip is not necessarily the narrowest part of the opening; check liner screws, bumper joints and the inner lip too.

A measurement at the top of the arch captures only one location. The front tyre sweeps fore and aft as it turns, while suspension movement changes its relationship to the body. The shoulder may clear the top and still touch the rear of the front liner at partial steering lock. Photograph and label each measurement rather than combining them into one vague clearance figure.

Eibach's spacer measurement guidance starts from the point of least outer clearance and recommends allowing room rather than simply matching the measured gap. Use that as a reminder to identify the limiting point. The final margin must suit the actual moving assembly, not just the straightedge position while parked.

Suppose an 8 inch ET45 wheel leaves its outer rim edge 25 mm inside your chosen arch reference. A 9 inch ET35 wheel adds 12.7 mm through half the width increase and another 10 mm through the offset reduction. Its outer bead-seat position moves out 22.7 mm, leaving a nominal 2.3 mm to that reference if flange shapes match.

That example may look attractive on paper, but it has not calculated the tyre shoulder or allowed for movement. If the new tyre extends further beyond the rim, the outermost rubber may already pass your reference. On the inner side, the same wheel change uses another 2.7 mm of space. Both sides need checking even when appearance drives the purchase.

• Calculate inner and outer wheel changes

Lowering reduces the visible space above the tyre, but its effect on wheel angle depends on suspension design. Camber may become more negative, pulling the top inwards. At the same time, the car may have less bump travel available. A tidier parked arch line does not establish that the tyre clears under compression.

Set the intended ride height and obtain an appropriate alignment before making a final wheel-position decision. If you buy a spacer while the car is at its old height, you may need to revisit the entire decision after the suspension work. Planning both together can save a second purchase.

Air suspension adds another distinction: display height and driving height. Record the position used on the road and check steering and travel there. A photograph of the car aired out cannot demonstrate road clearance. Do not treat the parked show position as a template for a fixed-height daily setup.

For a daily car carrying passengers, a little inboard space can be a practical choice. It leaves more room to manage load changes and replacement tyre variations. For a circuit car, the priority is a suitable tyre, alignment and clearance under cornering rather than matching the top arch line when stationary. An off-road vehicle needs assessment at steering lock and articulation.

Poke also raises body coverage and road-use questions that depend on jurisdiction and the exact vehicle. Do not assume that a setup is permitted because a supplier calls it flush or because another car passed an inspection. Ask the relevant specialist about the applicable requirements before specifying an outward position.

A visual preview is useful for comparing proportions: a slightly smaller wheel with more sidewall may look more balanced than a very large wheel pushed out to the arch. Keep colour, ride height and camera angle consistent so you can judge that decision without being distracted by unrelated changes.

• State the car's exact trim, brake package and suspension changes.
• Provide current wheel width, ET and complete tyre model and size.
• Describe the look using a reference image, then include measured gaps.
• List normal passengers, luggage, towing or track use.
• Ask for clearance checks through steering and suspension travel.
• Keep a record of the final approved parts and alignment.

If achieving the photograph requires an unapproved tyre width, excessive camber or body changes you did not budget for, revise the wheel choice. The aim is a coherent build that works in use. A few millimetres of visible tuck can be preferable to a setup that only looks right without passengers.

After fitting, inspect for fresh contact marks and have any rubbing investigated promptly. Do not wear the liner away as a clearance strategy. The material behind it may include wiring, a hose or bodywork, and tyre contact itself can cause damage. Fix the cause rather than normalising the noise.